Chabernet

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Archives for October 2014

German Know-how

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In the days before "German Engineering", the German's were known for sausage and for beer. I can't think of a more satisfying meal than grilled bratwurst with a cold beer. Sauerkraut and mustard cut the heaviness of the fatty pork, and the beer rinses your pallet for the next big bite. In Germany, sausages (or, Wurst in German) are regional specialties. Nuremberg is renowned for tiny grilled bratwurst. Many diners order these small treats by the platter. Platters of varying sizes are hung on the wall or described. The smell of the grilled porky deliciousness is so entrancing that you will be inclined to over-platter. Read more [...]

Risotto alla Milanese

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Risotto alla Milanese  BRAISED RICE WITH SAFFRON To serve 6 to 8 7 cups chicken stock, fresh or canned 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup finely chopped onions 1/3 to 1/2 cup chopped uncooked beef marrow (optional) 2 cups plain white raw rice, preferably imported Italian rice 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron or saffron threads crushed to a powder 4 tablespoons soft butter 1/2 cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and keep it barely simmering over low heat. In a heavy 3-quart flameproof casserole, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. Cook the onions in the butter, stirring frequently, for 7 or 8 minutes. Read more [...]

Zuppa di Pesce

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  FISH SOUP When cooked, this dish does not provide as much liquid-for the number of people it serves-as a conventional soup might seem to require,' it is more a dish of fish served in a seasoned liquid. It is nevertheless eaten as a soup, with a spoon. To serve 6 to 8       2 pounds fish heads, bones and trimmings 3 cups water 1 cup dry white wine 2/3 cup sliced onions 2 celery tops with leaves 3 parsley sprigs 1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 cup olive oil 2 pounds each of 3 kinds of white fish fillets or steaks-such as haddock, flounder, cod, perch, pollack, snapper, mackerel, bass or rockfish -cut into 2-inch serving pieces 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh tomato pulp Read more [...]

Zuppa di Fagioli con la Pasta

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BEAN SOUP WITH PASTA  The Bean Eater - Zuppa di Fagioli   To serve 4 to 6 1 cup dry white beans - marrow, Great Northern, navy or white kidney (cannelini beans) 2 to 2 1/2 quarts water 1 1/2 pound cooked smoked ham, cut in 1 1/4-inch cubes (about 2 cups) 1 1/2 cup finely chopped onions 1/4 cup finely chopped celery 1 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 pound lean salt pork in 1 piece 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 cup of l-inch pieces of spaghetti (break it by hand) or, substitute your favorite pasta Freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, bring the beans and 2 quarts of water to a boil over high heat and boil Read more [...]

Cooking Stocks

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Basic to good French cooking, and by extension, to all cooking, are good stocks and sauces. Good soups require good stocks. Many sauces demand them. Vegetables gain in appetizing flavor when they are cooked in stock. No self- respecting cook should think of poaching a fish in other than a fumet, a fish stock made with fish scraps, aromatics and wine. However, you will use such a fumet or court bouillon only when you poach a fish, so that it is not necessary to keep fish stocks on hand, especially because they are best made from the scraps and skeletons of the fish to be poached. However, the usefulness of meat and chicken stocks is so great that every cook should make her own. They keep very well for considerable periods in a deep Read more [...]

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