British food has a bad reputation. The old joke goes that the English are still cooking as though the Germans were still buzzing overhead. Truth is the British do certain things very well – I’m looking at you, comfort food. Like any cuisine associated with comfort food, it is easy to get it completely wrong. Bad soul food is just as plentiful as bad barbecue, and bad British food is no exception. British food these days encapsulates so many cuisines and styles, you can’t paint the cuisine with a broad brush. Indian and Chinese food are as much “British food” as sausage rolls and steak and kidney pie. Let’s talk about British food and wine – pairing it, cooking with it, and the many ways traditional and modern British food Read more [...]

Poaching fish in an aromatic broth is classical French, but a style that has gone out of fashion. Or, has it? My suspicion is that many chefs use the poaching technique (Fume) for delicate white fish and then perhaps finish the poached fish in the sauté pan, in the oven, or even on the grill. The reason I say this is because it is difficult for home cooks to infuse much flavor into their fish with such short cooking times. Our new favorite preparation is this quick and easy Fume. Unlike the classic French, we serve the fish in its poaching liquid giving it an almost Bouillabaisse or Cioppino style to it. We can get this dish to the table in less than 30 minutes which qualifies it for a weeknight supper. Add a crouton or crustini with Read more [...]

Risotto alla Milanese  BRAISED RICE WITH SAFFRON To serve 6 to 8 7 cups chicken stock, fresh or canned 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup finely chopped onions 1/3 to 1/2 cup chopped uncooked beef marrow (optional) 2 cups plain white raw rice, preferably imported Italian rice 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron or saffron threads crushed to a powder 4 tablespoons soft butter 1/2 cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and keep it barely simmering over low heat. In a heavy 3-quart flameproof casserole, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. Cook the onions in the butter, stirring frequently, for 7 or 8 minutes. Read more [...]

  FISH SOUP When cooked, this dish does not provide as much liquid-for the number of people it serves-as a conventional soup might seem to require,' it is more a dish of fish served in a seasoned liquid. It is nevertheless eaten as a soup, with a spoon. To serve 6 to 8       2 pounds fish heads, bones and trimmings 3 cups water 1 cup dry white wine 2/3 cup sliced onions 2 celery tops with leaves 3 parsley sprigs 1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 cup olive oil 2 pounds each of 3 kinds of white fish fillets or steaks-such as haddock, flounder, cod, perch, pollack, snapper, mackerel, bass or rockfish -cut into 2-inch serving pieces 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh tomato pulp Read more [...]